The Dinner Menu

When we read such books as "Culinary Jottings," by Wyvern, and "Food and Feeding," by Sir Henry Thompson, we are forced to acknowledge that men have probably given greater attention and wider research to the scientific aspect of culinary affairs and to the minutiae of the menu, regarding taste as the point of view, than have women. With what fond solicitude have Haywood, Savarin and Thompson discussed the relative position of the various courses in the menu. With them no details relative to cooking or eating have been thought trivial or beneath notice.

Wyvern says: "After years of observation I have come to the conclusion, if you want to put nice little dinners upon your table, you must not only be prepared to take an infinite amount of trouble, but you must make a friend of your chef." Here are two points which it were well for those who demand "elaborate menus for a dinner" to consider carefully. You cannot get up even nice "little dinners" successfully without being willing "to take an infinite amount of pains," and then to cultivate the best of feelings - a spirit of comradeship, as it were - with the man or maid who is to carry out the details of the meal. It is in the nice execution of the simplest details that the artist is discovered, in culinary matters, as it is in those of more ambitious efforts.

As a simple illustration, for instance, of the careful attention that must be given to little matters of details, where a phenomenal success in serving is sought for, we are told that at the Touraine (Boston), where the President was entertained on a recent visit, even the butter served to the guests bore the stamp of the American flag.

The following may be called a representative menu for a formal dinner party in early April:

Representative Menu

1st Course: Oysters. (Lemon Slices, Brown or Rye Bread Sandwiches.)

2nd Course: Consommé à la Royal.

3rd Course: Brook Trout, Broiled, Maître d'Hôtel Butter. (Cucumbers.)

4th Course: Sweetbread Croquettes, Mushroom Sauce.

5th Course: Saddle of Lamb, Stringless Beans. (Banana Fritters.)

6th Course: Roman Punch.

7th Course: Spring Chickens, Broiled, Lettuce Salad.

8th Course: Strawberry Bombe Glacé, Lady-Fingers.

9th Course: Bonbons.

1oth Course: Coffee.

This menu might be lengthened (the larger the number of "covers" the larger the number of courses required by adding a second soup preferably a cream soup, as a choice, a second entrée after the fish (as cutlets of beef forcemeat, tomato purée). A third after the saddle, which, in April, might be a dish of asparagus with a choice sauce, a hot pudding, as a custard soufflé, or a cold sweet, as a wine jelly, or a macedoine of fruits, before the ice, and tiny individual cheese soufflés, or some other savory tidbit, if a souffle has appeared before, as the bonne bouche, before the coffee. Liquors are served after the coffee in the tiniest of glasses.

The color of the meats and the sauces in the different courses should vary, as a dark meat with a dark sauce should be followed by a light meat with a light sauce. For a large entertainment two soups are provided; a clear soup and thickened one. Potatoes and a sauce are served with a boiled or fried fish; cucumber salad is provided, when the fish is broiled or cooked in a fancy manner. Entrées are so prepared as to be served without carving; if two be presented the first is the lighter or less substantial in character. Roasts include saddles of mutton, lamb or venison, beef or mutton tenderloins, turkey, capon, goose or duck. One or, at most, two vegetables accompany the roast. Cold meats, as aspics or chaudfroids, may be served after the game with salad; in this case salad is not passed with the game.